A glow in the dark before you start.

Glow plug not working. 
Note the reading on the meter.

The glow plugs are a preheat device allowing the engine to start more easily from cold. There is an icon on the dash to show that this is in progress when the light go's out the van is ready to start. This sign does not tell you that the glow plugs are in working order. Most people only notice there is a problem when they have trouble getting the engine to start and stay running first time which is something I have been experiencing with the van.

 

It is a quick and easy test to do with a voltmeter if you have one. The air filter housing needs to be removed first.  Set the voltmeter to resistance (ohms) on the meters dial. Touch the two probes to gather, this will give you a reading which will also show that the meter is working. Remove the wire connection from the top of the plug place one probe on the top of the plug where the wire was attached. It does not matter whether it is the black or red probe. Then touch the other probe to the hex nut that is part of the plug. Be careful not to touch the same area the other probe is already attached to as it will give a false result. If the meter gives a reading the heater element is OK. No reading means that it is a dud and needs to be replaced.

Working glow plug.
note the reading on the meter.

 

Be careful when removing the glow plugs from the engine. Remove any debris from around the base of the plug before removal otherwise it will fall into the cylinder. If you have trouble loosening the plug, try not to be to heavy handed you can round the nut off or snap the top off (they are made from aluminium) leaving the rest of the plug stuck in the head - which will be a whole lot of trouble. If the glow plug feels that it is over tight, spray some easing oil on the plugs thread and try again. If it still will not move, put it all back together and run the engine till it is hot and try again.

Tool for the job

 

To remove the glow plugs you will require: a 10 mm deep socket, Wobble head extension bar - at least 150 mm long, a ratchet and or tee bar. The glow plug at the front of the engine (left hand side) may need the top engine mount removed to allow proper access to the plug this depending on engine fitted. The torque settings for the glow plug are Fifteen to Twenty Newton meters.

Vivaro couldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding.

The van has developed a running fault that started a month or so ago and has become progressively worse. It has taken us some time to chase down the cause of this problem.

The symptoms:

 This fault shows it's self when you drive away from a stand still. You have to push down the accelerator pedal a lot further than is normal to get it to speed up enough to change up to second gear. On lifting your foot off the accelerator pedal to change gear the vehicle speeds up while you are changing up. On pressing down on the pedal again the van struggles to gain speed. It feels like it is holding back.

 

Thought process and action.

 

This suggests that it is a fuel problem. But it has nothing to do with fuel, injectors, high pressure pump, fuel filter or related sensors. Another suggestion was the turbo, but we could hear it spooling up. We checked the turbo pipes, ducting was tight and not blocked. We found a couple of lose hose clips but not enough to cause power loss. Also checked to make sure the waste gate solenoid worked as it should.

At one point we thought the ECU needed a re-boot, again it did not seem likely. Thinking about it, it was a flow problem the only other thing that came to mind was the air flow meter. Before we paid out on a new meter we surfed some motoring forums for pointers, but no one had this fault it would seem. We came across a thread that suggested the changing of the airflow meter would sort it out, but this gentleman also had the crank sensor replace. After a short discussion we decided to go with the air flow meter. Bingo! got it in one and what a relief, it would have been an expensive mistake otherwise.



Air flow meter

 

Extra work.

 

While we had the air filter housing off, which is a pig remove, we thought it prudent to check the glow plugs as it only takes a couple of minutes with a voltmeter. We found that two of the plugs didn't work. The ERG valve drew my attention because the inlet manifold was covered in oil suggesting the gasket had failed or the bolts were loose. You have to be patient when removing it as it has a build-up of oil residue. On removal, it was found clogged with a thick coagulated oil that took a bit of cleaning up.

 

It runs and pulls like a train now. The rice pudding skin doesn't stand a chance!

Vauxhall Vivaro rear hub nut and brake dices replace

This post has been prompted by the lack of good technical information out there on the Vauxhall Vivaro, Primastar and traffic van and in particular the rear hub settings.

I recently had a rear hub bearing seize up, luckily the bearing had not welded itself to the stub axle. Which is all too common in this type of bearing failure.

I am surprised and concerned to find a lot of miss information on forums. The lack of this information is making a statement like: “if you don't know the torque setting for the hub nut just tighten it up as tight as you can and then put a scaffold pole on the Tee bar and do it up some more!”. This stratagem can be dangerous and will cause the bearing to prematurely fail again. Why? The rear hub bearing is of the taper roller type which means that if you do not set it up correctly it will bind on the runners causing it to overheat and seize. These are not like ball bearings which can be over tightened (which is not recommended) because there is not the same direct affect.

The specialist kit you need to do this job properly:

36 mm socket

1. A thirty-six-millimetre socket for the hub nut. Which is three quarter inch drive that you may step down to half inch.
2. A Tee bar.
3. An extension bar like a scaffold pole no longer than a meter for loosening only.
4. A torque wrench that can go up to three hundred Newton meters. Which are not that expensive. Please note that wrench is Six hundred millimetre long (half a meter) This is the optimum length for this weight of tightness.
5. Spanners and or sockets for the brake calliper mounting bolts of twenty-one millimetres.

300 Newton meter
torque wrench

Destroyed bearing.
Also shows ABS ring.

Be careful not to damage the wheel sensor. The hub nut should be tightened to two hundred and eighty Newton Meters which is surprisingly not that tight - about a quarter of a turn or so after it has been done up normally with a ratchet. The mounting bolts for the calliper cage- one hundred and eighty Newton meters- you should clean the threads with a tap before adding new thread lock and the wheel nuts are one hundred and forty Newton meters and don't forget to put a little bit of lube on the threads.

If you would like to ask any questions or add further to this post, please do.

Related post:   Sticking handbrake.