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This article is not about solving a particular problem but about how to remove the fuel tank and what the pinch points maybe.
We haven't just removed the tank for the sake of this blog. We had fitted a
diesel heater and needed to add a supply pipe.
This is possibly one of the simplest straight forward jobs you can do yourself
on this van. The tools for the job are simple as well, multi tipped screw driver
to include star bits. because this is manly a van of French manufacture the
bolts holding the tank in place are 16mm, four axle stands to do it safely, a 3
ton trolley jack preferred and a special tool to remove the fuel gauge housing.
Before we go on you should use safety glasses preferably ones that are full enclosed to prevent any fuel getting in your eyes or some form of glasses that
will deflect any droplet that springs off the pipes you release. If you get thesmallest of droplets in your eyes you will know it with a vengeance. This is
Experience talking. Please note the warning.
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One of the most obvious pinch points is the amount of fuel in the tank. Liquids
are surprisingly heavy and unpredictably when they get moved. Once moving
they can build up a force that cannot be stopped causing untold damage to the
wiring and fuel lines connected to the tank. If you are laying on the floor with
it on a jack the chances are you will not be able to prevent it slipping off. It is a good idea if you have someone else about to give a hand. The emptier the tank the better.
If you are thinking of siphoning the fuel off think again as there is an anti
syphon device fitted. We did go this route because the gauge was showing two
bars on the segmented digital dash or about a quarter on analogue fuel gauge.
This amounts to 30+ liters in our case which is quit a weight for one person to lift, let alone control laying on the floor.
OK the first job is to release the filler neck and breather pipe from the tank.
There maybe a protecting plate fitted if not it means the tank has been off
before. If it has there will be an unscrew-able hose clip fitted making the job easier as it has replaced the tamper proof clip that will need cutting or breaking off.
Next the breather pipe, to release this you apply pressure ether side to the
buttons and it will slide off. Practice was different for us it would not move no
matter what we did so in the end we unscrewed the fill neck from the body
held in place with three star screws then fiddled the neck out. We were able
once the tank was out to remove the breather even then it fort us. The fill neck was put back in place before the tank was refitted.
The four 16mm bolts holding the tank in place were all released. These bolts
have thread lock on them so may take some effort to undo. Depending on
whether or not you have enough height once you have the axle stands in place
it is a good idea to place on the ground under the tank a sheet of ply, carpet
cloth etc. to protect the tank if you have to slide the tank out without the jack.
No point gouging the tank that may produce leaks at a later date.
We place a board on the trolley jack to help spread the load and protect the
tank. With it in place and jacked up we took the bolts out completely. Lowering
the tank very slowly as we still had 30 liters of fuel in it. Even so it nearly
pulled itself of the jack.
With the tank down you need to release the fuel flow and return pipes. The
pipes run along the top of the tank in groves that hold them in place along with
the wiring loom. These need to be gentle prized out. Once out remove the
pipes from the pump sensor unit this is quite simple they are squeeze together clips. Place both pipes in a container to catch the diesel that will leak out or
Plug the ends. Then unclip the wiring block connector.
With everything removed, pull the tank from under the van for the next set of
fun and games. If the top of the tank is caked in mud we suggest you clean it
off to stop the fuel being contaminated with it. We made the special tool needed to remove the locking ring holding the pump sensor unite in place.
Before you remove the lock ring look for an arrow and mark its position on the
top of the tank. If there is no mark then make your own. This is important
when tightening so you do not over stress the threads. Also make a note of the direction the pipe connections are pointing.
When placing the removal tool it should sit on the little step at the top of the
ring. With the home made tool wind in the outer nuts in until it grips and then
use the inner ones to lock it into place. Put a bar of a reasonable length between the upright metal and apply pressure slowly anti clock wise. It will be stiff to turn for a number of turns. The reason is that the unit is sprung loaded.
Pull the unit up slowly as there is a float attached to a long wire bar. This tells the dashboard how much fuel is in the tank.
It is a little tricky getting it out you will need to lean the unit over at an angle. Keeping an eye on the O ring sitting at the top of the thread.
We did our modification and emptied the tank of most of its fuel to make the
replacement a lot simpler. It is also an opportunity to see if the fuel is
contaminated and removed. Before doing up the lock ring check the O ring is
properly in place if not it will leak. It is important that the hose connections are
kept pointing the right way and keep checking as the top of the unit will keep
moving until the lock ring becomes tight.
The empty tank makes its replacement a lot simpler. It is a case of retracing
your steps to get it back in place. Once all secure replace the fuel. Before you
start the engine use the priming bulb to charge the line removing the air.
If you are doing this for the first time allow a day, two days from start to finish.
The amount of time really depends on your circumstances. We did it over two
days as we had to make the special tool and really not in a hurry.
Pictures in order of apperance:
1. Mounting place for filler pipe.
2. Breather pipe push fit connection.
3. Anti syphon trap.
4. Clip on to og fuel tank.
5. Connections on top of sender unit.
6. Plate of steel to make special tool.
7. Special tool put together.
8. Ridge on sender unit scuring ring.
9. placement of special tool.
10. Sender unit will need to be lent over to one side to take into account float and arm.
11. New fuel pipe for Wallas XC Duo cab heater.
12. New pick up pipe in place in sender unit.
13. O ring seal on fuel tank check not damaged.
14. Cover that protects fuel primeing bulb.
15. Primeing bulb.
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